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St-Viateur Bagel

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Coordinates: 45°31′22″N 73°36′07″W / 45.52278°N 73.60194°W / 45.52278; -73.60194
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Exterior view, with metal cart in front, used to transport bagels
St-Viateur has various branch locations besides the original bakery, including this one pictured on Mount Royal Avenue.

St-Viateur Bagel is a famous Montreal-style bagel bakery located in the neighbourhood of Mile End in the borough of Le Plateau-Mont-Royal, Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

History

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St-Viateur Bagel was established on May 21, 1957 by Myer Lewkowicz, a Holocaust survivor who moved to Canada in 1953.[1] Lewkowicz had grown up poor in a shtetl near Kraków, Poland. Lewkowicz spoke of his experience in the Holocaust influencing the opening the shop by stating "At Buchenwald, all I dreamt of was a piece of bread".[1] He learned the trade as an employee of Montreal Bagel Bakery, another local bagel shop owned by Hyman Seligman.[2] The shop is named after the street it is located on, St-Viateur Street, and is one of the longest-running bagel shops in Montreal.[3] In 1985 St-Viateur Bagel suffered an extensive fire, but the wood stove remained entirely intact.[4]

St-Viateur Bagel has two bakeries, three bagel cafés, a food truck, and an online store, in addition to the original storefront.[5] In March 2019, the shop's Monkland Avenue café permanently closed due to the end of their 18-year lease and rising rent prices.[6] Today, the bakery is owned by Joe Morena, who had previously worked at the shop for 15 years,[2][7] and competes with the nearby Fairmount Bagel for the title of Montreal's best bagel.[8][9]

In 2017, St-Viateur Bagel celebrated its 60th anniversary.[10]

Cultural significance

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Interior view with wood-fired oven at rear, St-Viateur Bagel

St-Viateur Bagel Shop lies on the border of the Jewish Quarter and the Mile End neighbourhood. In addition to St-Viateur Bagel Shop, Montreal's Jewish Quarter is also the home of Schwartz's deli, Moishes Steakhouse, Cheskie's Bakery,[11] and Beauty's Luncheonette,[12] all of which have a long history within the Jewish community in Montreal.[13] A study done by the Université de Montréal explains that the large influence of Jewish food in Montreal culinary culture is likely because of how inexpensive and widely-accessible items such as bagels and smoked meat were in Montreal in the early 20th century. This is due to the fact that there was a large Jewish immigrant population which put down roots along Boulevard St. Laurent. Professor of Theology Oliver Bauer of the Université de Montréal explains in the study that the roundness of a bagel represents infinity and immortality. It is because of this representation that bagels are often served at a bris ceremonies—the celebration of a baby boy's circumcision—and at shiva gatherings—mourning period after a death has occurred.[14]

Bagel-making process

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After the dough is made, small pieces are cut and are formed into the bagel shape

Since the shop opened in 1957, their process of producing bagels has stayed true to the original recipe. According to owner Joe Morena, each bagel is hand rolled individually, boiled in honey water for 30–60 seconds, dipped in seeds, and finally baked on a long wooden plank in a wood-burning oven.[15] In contrast to the New York-style bagel which contains similar ingredients, the Montreal bagel differs in size, taste, and style: the Montreal bagel tends to be sweeter, thinner, and has a larger hole. The authentic wood-burning oven creates the crispy outer texture characteristic of a Montreal bagel.[16]

In the front of the bakery, by the window, piles of flour that are needed to make the bagels are displayed

Bagels

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St-Viateur sells several varieties of Montreal-style bagels including: plain, sesame, poppy, all dressed, whole wheat, cinnamon & raisin, rosemary & sea salt, blueberry, pumpernickel and muesli. Their website provides nutritional information on each bagel including ingredients and allergens. Each bagel ranges between 200 and 240 calories per 2 servings (1 serving is listed as half of a bagel). An order of two dozen bagels is priced between $22 and $25CAD.[17]

In the media

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The closing of the Monkland Village location of St-Viateur in March 2019 was widely reported across Montreal and National news outlets.[6][18][19]

In 2018, the Globe and Mail published an article detailing how wood-burning businesses that are unable to meet emission bylaw requirements will be forced to switch to gas or electric. The article cited St-Viateur among other traditional bagels shops which would be directly impacted by this development.[20] St-Viateur Bagel has since installed a filter to reduce emissions and comply with updated local emissions bylaws.[21]

In 2020, St-Viateur Bagel is featured in an episode, season 3 episode 5, of the Netflix show Somebody Feed Phil.[22]

See also

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Wikimedia Commons has media related to St-Viateur Bagel.

References

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  1. ^ a b "A little bit of our history - St-Viateur Bagel". www.stviateurbagel.com. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  2. ^ a b "The Real Story Behind Montreal's St-Viateur Bagel Shop". www.mtlblog.com. Retrieved March 27, 2020.
  3. ^ "St Viateur Bagel : A classic Montreal location for bagels". TASTET. December 2, 2015. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  4. ^ "The Real Honest Story Behind Montreal's St-Viateur Bagel Shop". www.mtlblog.com. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  5. ^ "Our locations - St-Viateur Bagel". www.stviateurbagel.com. Retrieved March 12, 2021.
  6. ^ a b "'It's a disappointment': St. Viateur Bagel Monkland Ave. location to close in March | CBC News". CBC. Retrieved March 12, 2021.
  7. ^ Forrest, Maura (December 27, 2019). "Dear Montreal: It's time to relax about the bagels". The Chronicle Herald.
  8. ^ Albernaz, Ami (November 5, 2008). "Two Montreal bakeries compete to make the best rounds of hot, soft bagels". The Christian Science Monitor. The Christian Science Monitor. Retrieved February 6, 2009.
  9. ^ Beck, Katie (June 22, 2010). "The bagel war of Montreal". BBC News. Retrieved June 22, 2010.
  10. ^ "A family affair: St-Viateur Bagel celebrates 60 years". montrealgazette.com. Retrieved March 27, 2020.
  11. ^ "Cheskie's - Montreal, Quebec - Bakery | Facebook". www.facebook.com. Retrieved April 1, 2019.
  12. ^ "Beautys Luncheonette". www.facebook.com. Retrieved April 1, 2019.
  13. ^ Yogerst, Joe (March 16, 2017). "Montreal's most interesting neighborhoods". CNN Travel. Retrieved April 1, 2019.
  14. ^ Seidman, Karen (January 9, 2016). "Why Montreal's culinary heritage is so rooted in Jewish foods". Montreal Gazette. Retrieved April 1, 2019.
  15. ^ "St-Viateur Bagel: 5 things you may not know - Montreal | Globalnews.ca". globalnews.ca. May 22, 2017. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  16. ^ "New York v. Montreal: Which has the best bagels?". USA TODAY. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  17. ^ "Our Bagel Flavors". St–Viateur Bagels. Retrieved April 1, 2019.
  18. ^ Curtis, Christopher (January 16, 2019). "St. Viateur Bagel's Monkland bakery to close in March". Montreal Gazette. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  19. ^ "Bye bye bagel! St. Viateur Bagels in Monkland Village to close shop on Monday | CTV News Montreal". montreal.ctvnews.ca. March 8, 2019. Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  20. ^ "The death of the Montreal bagel?". Retrieved March 28, 2019.
  21. ^ "St-Viateur Bagel". www.instagram.com. Archived from the original on December 24, 2021. Retrieved March 12, 2021.
  22. ^ Karwacki, JP. "Here's every restaurant featured in the Montreal episode of Somebody Feed Phil". timeout.com. TimeOut. Retrieved May 14, 2021.
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45°31′22″N 73°36′07″W / 45.52278°N 73.60194°W / 45.52278; -73.60194

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